The video above has caused a storm on Facebook - with many lash techs swearing black and blue that getting lash extensions wet within 48 hours of initial application is a recipe for bad retention.
This, however, is wrong, and there are many reasons why you can and SHOULD cleanse your clients lashes at the beginning and the duration of their lash nap.
Before lash curing was implemented, we used to ask clients to avoid getting their lashes wet for 48 hours after lash application. This is due to the fact that eyelash adhesive cures by absorbing the hydrogen bonds in water – they do not dry like paint.
If the client was to leave and shower within a couple of hours, their lashes would be drenched with water and the adhesive at the base of each lash would bond together, resulting in the lashes no longer being isolated.
Therefore, each lash is unable to grow out at its own individual growth rate, possibly ripping out neighbouring lashes they are bonded to as they grow.
If lashes are not isolated, and they are pulled out prematurely, this can scar the lash follicle and cause the stop the lashes from growing, resulting in a sparse, gappy lash line.
This is why we cure the adhesive, and results in clients not needing to wait 48 hours to get their lashes wet.
But what about shock curing?? I've had one lady ask me.
Shock curing occurs when you mist adhesive that is still wet to the touch. You can see evidence of shock curing when the adhesive turns white, also known as blooming. Misting the adhesive results in the outermost layers being immediately cured, and will take a further 48 hours to fully cure. As long as the outer layers are cured the client will not suffer from irritation from the fumes, nor will the isolation of their lashes be put into jeopardy.
But why, you ask? If I have cured, then why do I need to cleanse the lashes afterwards?
Excellent question! The fumes the glue can produce can stick to the skin regardless of how careful we are with the adhesive. This can cause irritation to the skin, and can contribute to allergic reactions.
By cleansing immediately after application with a lash cleanser (I use Chrissanthie diluted with saline in foam bottles), we are removing any potential irritants, and reduce the likelihood of a reaction.
It is important that you do not use tap water when cleansing or rinsing the eye area, as the water contains many potential irritants, including Acanthamoeba, which can be particularly dangerous for contact wearers, as these pathogens can stick to the lenses and cause infections that can cost your clients their eyesight.
So when should you cure the adhesive?
It is a great idea to not only cure at the end of each appointment, but to cure throughout. I have a client who is sensitive to the adhesive, and I cure every 15 minutes. It is absolutely vital to ensure that you do not wet the lashes when curing the adhesive - as applying extensions to wet lashes can cause the adhesive to shock cure, and prevent a strong bond from being formed between the natural lash and the extension.
I hope this clears up any confusion, and if you have any questions, please do't hesitate to comment, or contact me directly.